LIMON PROVINCE
Puerto Limon, Costa Rica

GENERAL INFORMATION:

Climate: Limón conjures up images of Costa Rica's coconut-fringed Caribbean coast. Although the province does indeed extend the length of this coast -- from the mouth of the San Juan River in the north, to the mouth of the Sixaola River on the Panamanian border -- the southern sector includes a large area of mountainous terrain that stretches up to the country's highest peak, Mt. Chirripó, in the Talamanca Cordillera. Likewise, the provincial boundaries also climb to over 2,000 m. elevation on the northeastern flank of Turrialba Volcano.

Despite the rise in elevation from sea level to 3,820 meters, Limón is the only one of Costa Rica's seven provinces to be entirely on the Caribbean side of the Continental Divide, and thus its weather is directly affected by the flow of warm, moist air brought in off this body of water by the northeast trade winds. The result is a climate with no pronounced dry season, even though it does tend to be less rainy in the months of March, April, September, and October, and typically rains the most in June, July, August, November, and December. The lowland regions remain warm and humid year-round, while the higher portions are both cooler and wetter.

History : Christopher Columbus, or Cristobal Colón as he is known in Spanish, and his crew were the first Europeans to lay eyes on the shores and forest-covered mountains of Costa Rica. On the great Admiral's fourth and final voyage to the Americas, in 1502, he anchored near what is now the port city and provincial capital of Limón. His brief dealings with the native people he met on the mainland were apparently good-natured, yet this benevolent interaction was not to be the norm during the centuries to come.

Spanish settlement of Costa Rica came not from the Atlantic but from the Pacific side of the country. Given the mountainous barrier between the Central Valley and the Caribbean lowlands, as well as the dense forests and high rainfall characteristic of the latter region, would-be colonists were faced with a real challenge. The periodic expeditions organized with, at least in part, the purpose of establishing permanent settlements in the Caribbean region inevitably met with failure. Their cruel treatment of the indigenous people did not help the Spaniards in their objective either, since the natives in the area wholeheartedly resisted colonization.

Thus, throughout the three centuries of the colonial period, while the Central Valley and northern Pacific portions of Costa Rica were being progressively dominated by settlers from Spain, the Atlantic wilderness continued to be an untamed frontier.

The one small exception was the Valley of Matina where a number of farms existed for the purpose of growing cacao -- the source of cocoa and chocolate, which are produced from the seeds. Although it was a long and difficult journey from the Central Valley to Matina, near the Caribbean coast, the merchants from Cartago who invested in the cacao farms considered it a worthy enterprise given the otherwise limited opportunities for commercial trade with other colonies.

Originally, the farms were worked by native people who had been captured and put into slavery. This system met with problems, including legal ones because the authorities officially forbid such treatment of the native population. The solution was the purchase of African slaves from elsewhere in the region. Each worker was given a certain number of plants to tend, and often, after several years service, was given his freedom.

This agricultural activity persisted for about 150 years, but never really contributed significantly to the country's economic progress, and by the time of independence from Spain in 1821 had been all but abandoned. It is interesting to note that owing to the scarcity of coinage in colonial times, cacao beans were sometimes used in lieu of currency, or as a basis for bartering.

The real opening of Costa Rica's eastern frontier did not come until the second half of the 19th century. In 1867, the site for a Caribbean port was chosen, and it is said that growing on the spot was an old lemon tree, or limón.

To make the port accessible from the interior of the country, the government decided to construct a railroad and contracted the services of the North American entrepreneur, Minor Keith, in exchange for 300,000 hectares of land in the Caribbean lowlands, plus other benefits.

Keith established banana plantations on the land and brought in Afro-American workers from Jamaica to tend the plantations and build the railroad, thus changing not only the physical environment -- which for thousands of years had been rain forest -- but also the cultural milieu of the region.

OTHERS POINTS OF INTEREST: Puerto Limon Costa Rica

Canals north of Limón: The so-called Canales de Tortuguero are the result of a dredging operation carried out in the 1960's to link a series of naturally occurring lagoons and river courses, thus permitting inland navigation between the city of Limón and the northeastern coastal villages. Prior to the opening of the canal in 1969, transportation of people and products to and from these villages was in dugout vessels that ventured out the river mouths to the open sea and then up or down the coast. The risk inherent in this method of transportation was greatly reduced once the canal system became functional.

With the growing numbers of tourists interested in visiting Tortuguero National Park, this route has become increasingly more transited, yet it still retains much of its scenic quality. Shortly after leaving the dock at Moín, you pass through one of the few mangrove areas to be found on the Caribbean side of the country. The red mangroves here are impressive with their prop roots dropping sometimes from five meters or more above the water level and the overall heights of the trees reaching to over 15 meters. Both here and along the length of the waterway system you can observe a variety of birds that live in association with riverine habitats, including herons, egrets, kingfishers, ospreys, jacanas, cormorants, and anhingas.

Between the mangrove section and the start of the national park, nearly 50 km. further north, there is not much intact forest left along the canal. However, you can observe the lifestyle of the inhabitants along the way and try to spot sloths and iguanas in any places where there are still trees.

PLAYA BONITA: Situated five kilometers north of the city of Limón, this easy-access beach's big waves are ideal for surfers. Luxuriant tropical greenery surrounds this lovely spot, with coconut palms endowing the place with special scenic appeal. Due to its beauty and proximity to Limón, this beach is a favorite with the city's residents and with tourists looking to enjoy the ocean. Various activities, such as concerts and surfing contests, are often held here. Playa Bonita is perfect for sunbathing, walking along the beach, swimming (with caution), nature-watching, beach volleyball, picnics and family fun..

LIMÓN CITY : The shortest route to Limón is the Braulio Carrillo highway, but the Turrialba route along the old highway may also be taken. The distance is approximately 160 kilometers. History records that in 1502 Christopher Columbus landed in Costa Rica at the place known as Puerto Limón. The country's port par excellence thanks to import and export traffic, Limón now has the facilities to receive cruise ships as well. The city's old quarter has the characteristics of a historical center and is currently under urban renovation with restoration of buildings and a pedestrian walkway from Parque Vargas to the market.

LIMÓN CARNIVAL : Celebrated every year during the week of October 12, which commemorates Cultures Day, this event is of great interest to tourists and generates much local and national excitement. A Carnival Queen is chosen beforehand, and in the afternoons costumed groups may be seen rehearsing in the barrios. Other activities include a parade of costumed groups and floats, masquerades, marching bands, national and international concert groups and a traditional dragon dance put on by the Chinese community. The most anticipated event of the year, the carnival enjoys the participation of the entire community of Limón. The floats, bands and costumed groups, with all the music and color that characterize this event, are complemented by other attractions such as amusement park rides, Caribbean food and drink, fireworks and handicrafts and carnival souvenirs for sale.

AFRO-CARIBBEAN CUISINE : The Caribbean region is also distinguished from the rest of the country by its traditional dishes. Examples of delectable and highly popular food and drink include rondón (a mix of various vegetables with beef, chicken, fish or turtle meat), fish (stewed, in marinade or fried), sancocho (chicken and pork with tomatoes, yucca, potatoes and sweet potatoes), rice and beans (cooked in coconut milk and accompanied by chicken, fish, pork or beef), patí (meat pastries with chili pepper), plantintah (a pastry made with ripe plantains), bread fruit (pureed, in pudding or fried), turtle meat (in rondón or fin soup), beef tripe (with tubers and spices), Johnny cake (coconut bread), ginger cookies, ginger beer, guarapo (an alcoholic drink made from fermented corn) and agua de sapo or agua de hiel (a very popular drink made with ginger, lime and brown cane sugar).

LIMÓN BOULEVARD

This beautiful pedestrian walkway takes up four blocks of Avenida 2 in the city of Limón. It starts in the west at Calle 4 and ends in the east in front of the seawall. Built in 1941, the central market is on the boulevard; opposite it on the corner sits a beautiful building: Banco Nacional de Costa Rica. Another lovely edifice, the Pensión Costa Rica, is located a block and a half to the east. Parque Vargas is on the last block. Opposite its north side is the Limón municipal building; on the other side is an old structure that once belonged to the Banana Company and today houses offices and shops. The boulevard ends at the seawall, where there is an amphitheater from which Quiribrí Island may be seen. The seawall is well frequented by Limón's residents and by tourists. Bordering the shore, it stretches several hundred meters to Hospital Tony Facio.

QUIRIBRÍ ISLAND (UVITA) : This island territory was declared a National Monument in 1985 for having been the first place visited by Christopher Columbus when he landed on this Caribbean shore during his fourth voyage in 1502. It was precisely because of the wealth exhibited by the indigenous people with whom he came into contact that Columbus-perhaps also inspired by the tropical luxuriance of the land-named the place "Costa Rica" ("Rich Coast"). The island was called Quiribrí. It is an attractive place, as much for its lush tropical greenery as for its rocky contours and coral reefs. A pleasant beach lies close to the island's wharf. A looping trail may be enjoyed, as well as excellent diving and surfing. On September 25, Columbus' arrival is commemorated with a brilliant flag parade and school bands from the Limón central canton.

CAHUITA COMMUNITY : Home to a mix of cultures, this community features varied local and international cuisine and all kinds of facilities for touring the National Park located here. Companies offer tours to the reef and to other parts of Talamanca and the surrounding area. Places for enjoying music are also available.

PLAYA NEGRA (CAHUITA) : "Black Beach" is the name of this dark-sand beach located north of the town of Cahuita. Long and fringed with lush tropical greenery, Playa Negra has distinct areas featuring inlets, coral platforms, coves and sandy beaches. The surf is moderate to strong. This beach is ideal for relaxing and contemplating the sea, as well as exploring on foot, horseback or mountain bike.

PLAYA BLANCA (CAHUITA) : Named "White Beach" for the color of its sand, Playa Blanca is part of Cahuita National Park, stretching some three kilometers from the park entrance to Punta Cahuita. The initial stretch of this narrow beach features a shelf and strong surf; swimming is not recommended here. Toward its middle stretch, before the Río Suárez estuary, however, swimming is ideal. After crossing the estuary, the presence of a fringing coral reef offshore transforms the beach into a vast lagoon. On the point, the sand is very light in color. Here the reef is close in; visitors can dive in its waters, or continue some two kilometers more to Puerto Vargas.

PUERTO VARGAS : This lovely beach also belongs to Cahuita National Park, stretching several kilometers from Punta Cahuita to the mouth of the Río Carbón. It has three distinct areas, all breathtaking thanks to their lush vegetation. From north to south, the first area comprises the point up to the promontory of Puerto Vargas. Here, the water is crystalline and calm thanks to the coral reef. Extending from Puerto Vargas to the beach entrance, the second stretch features darker sand and mild to moderate surf. The third reaches from here to the mouth of the Río Carbón, and consists of an open coast with strong surf.

PUERTO VIEJO : Like Cahuita, the town of Puerto Viejo offers many facilities to ensure an enjoyable visit. Lodging and travel companies and a tour guide association offer trips to other areas of Talamanca. There are also excellent restaurants featuring local and international cuisine, as well as varied nightlife offering traditional music and dancing from the Costa Rican Caribbean

KéköLdi Indigenous Reserve: Costa Rica's indigenous population is relatively small and disperse. The Talamanca mountains provided the last refuge for the native people from the relentless advances of western colonization and it is here that the greatest number of reservations have been established. Most of the reserves are still not readily accessible or set up to attend to tourists. However, with prior permission obtained at the ATEC (Talamanca Association for Ecotourism and Conservation) office in Puerto Viejo, a guided visit can be arranged to the KéköLdi Reserve.

A morning walk through a portion of this small reserve is an enlightening experience as you learn about native lifestyles, customs, and beliefs. The two indigenous groups, Bribri and Cabecar, that live in the reserve are descendants of people who have lived in this rain forest region for thousands of years and have developed an environmentally sound approach to life in such conditions. Their way of life in harmony with nature provides a sharp contrast to the bulldozer and chainsaw mentality so evident outside the reserve. Puerto Limon Costa Rica